The thirteenth posting of our Alaska RV trip is about our last days in Alaska.
Last Days in Alaska
The wildfires are continuing and there are many areas of Alaska and Canada that are smokey. We have to be in Denver, CO at the end of the month to fly to Charlotte for “Beach Week” (which is actually at a lake). But we have plenty of time to get there, so it’s the smoke that’s driving our plans.
Worthington Glacier
On day 110, we leave Valdez and drive to Worthington Glacier State Recreation Site. There are pull-through sites for RV day parking here. We almost don’t go because of the biting flies. But we have masks, long sleeves and bug-spray. The first trail we try is too steep. We go back to the RV for lunch, and see that we went on the wrong trail. We find the right trail, and it is much better. There are signs warning that the glacier is unstable and dangerous. That turns out to be true. We see people coming back, whose dog was killed by a falling rock. We wish we didn’t see that and we are very, very cautious. Other than that, it is an excellent hike.
Worthington Glacier
Glennallen
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After the glacier hike, we go to Squirrel Creek State Recreation Site. We pull in and realize there is no turn-around. We disconnect the car and back-out. We decide to drive on and get a campsite in Glennallen. We get a nice site at Northern Nights Campground. We have electric, which is nice. It is 88° and we can run the A/C. This is a great pull-through campsite, with water and electric. They even have WiFi that works. We back-up our phones.
Deadman Lake Campground
There are 36 wildfires in Alaska. Glennallen is looking smokey. We take the Tok Cutoff towards Tok. It’s getting smokier. We pass through Tok.
This is the second time we’ve been in Tok. Tok is the first town in Alaska, going west on the Alaska Highway. They say that when driving through Alaska, you pass through Tok twice—once on your way in and once on your way out. We stopped here on our way in to make phone calls and to buy groceries (See 2019 RV Trip—Alaska, Part 6). This time we don’t stop at all—we continue on to Deadman Lake Campground.
Deadman Lake Campground is part of the US Fish and Wildlife Service. The gravel road into the campground is narrow, and we are glad we don’t encounter anyone coming the opposite way. We find a nice secluded campsite. Too bad it’s smokey outside.
This is our last night in Alaska. We would have stayed longer, but we need to get away from the smoke. We’ve had a wonderful time, but we have been on the road for 112 days and driven 8,500 miles. We’ve spent roughly $5,000 on gas and $2,700 on campgrounds—the adventures continue. Next, Yukon, British Columbia and Alberta…
The twelfth posting of our Alaska RV trip is about our time in Valdez Alaska.
Valdez, AK
We have reserved Allison Point Campground in Valdez for seven days, but we have two more days to go. We drive to Blueberry Lake State Recreation Site and get a campsite for two nights.
Blueberry Lake State Recreation Site
This is a small campground, about 15 sites. It’s run by a concessionaire, but there are no attendants. We get the last suitable site, write a check for $50 for two nights, and deposit it in the slot. It’s a very pretty area. It’s all dry camping—there is a vault toilet and one water pump, there is no dump station. There is no cell phone service here, but lots of mosquitoes and biting flies.
We are about 25 miles from downtown Valdez, and we need to go to the grocery store. We drive the car into town. We stop several times along the way to take pictures of the waterfalls beside the road.
Horsetail Falls in Valdez
Valdez is known as the land of waterfalls. We stop at Bridal Veil Falls and Horsetail Falls.
After the grocery store, we decide to explore the town. We drive to Allison Point Campground, where we have a reservation in a couple of days. It’s about 15 miles from town. It’s low tide, and we see bald eagles feeding on salmon.
Then, we check out the Valdez Elks Lodge. They have a steak dinner tonight, but we drive back to the RV and cook salmon on the grill.
The next day, we cook breakfast outside, on the griddle. We use bug-spray and thermo-cells to keep the flies and mosquitoes at bay. For dinner, we cook blackened halibut on the griddle.
On Sunday, we drive into town to dump our holding tanks, fill with fresh water and gas. It’s not very far, so we don’t bother to hook up the tow car. After that, we go to Allison Point Campground, about 15 miles from town. It’s right on the water. It’s a city campground with 61 dry camping sites for $20 a night.
We have pretty good Verizon cell phone service here. After we catch up on emails, and make some phone calls, we go back into town to buy groceries and explore.
We stop at The Fat Mermaid and have some smoked salmon dip. Then we go to the grocery store and buy some bison ribeye steaks to grill for dinner. Delicious!
Today, from our RV, we watch a couple of fishing boats pulling out nets full of salmon. Then, at high tide, we go to the Solomon Gulch Hatchery, about a mile down the road, and watch sea lions, sea otters, harbor seals, seagulls, and bald eagles feasting on salmon.
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After that, we drive the car to Glacier Lake Park, and walk around looking at the icebergs.
Glacier Lake Park
Then, we drive into town and walk around the waterfront. Next, we go to Peter Pan Seafood Market, and buy some fresh Rockfish, frozen Scallops and Halibut cheeks. We cook half the Rockfish for dinner. Excellent!
Today, we drive the car a mile down the road to the Solomon Lake Trail head. We hike to the dam. It’s very scenic, with some nice waterfalls. The trail goes underneath the Alaskan Pipeline at one point. On the hike back, we take a side trail to a scenic overlook of the bay. We talk to some people who saw a bear, but we don’t see any. We hike about four miles total. The trail is mostly gravel and steep in places, but it is very scenic.
Solomon Lake Trail Scenic Overlook
We have scallops for dinner. Yum!
The 4th of July has a record high temperature, but we are still a little cold near the water. We drive downtown at around noon. We have lunch at a food truck called the Nat Shack. It’s very busy. We wait in line to order two halibut tacos, and then we wait about an hour until they’re ready. They are really good.
After we eat, we walk around town. There are festivities going on all day, but not much is happening at the moment. We walk back into town and shop in some gift shops. Later, we go back and listen to live music, and have a couple of beers. We watch a Coast Guard rescue demonstration. They start serving hamburgers at 5:00, but the line is very long. We decide to walk into town and eat at the Alaska Halibut House. Very good!
Coast Guard Rescue Demo
There are no fireworks here. I don’t know if that’s because of all the wildfires in the area or because it doesn’t get dark until after 1:15AM.
Today, we drive the RV into town to dump our holding tanks and fill our freshwater tank. Later, we drive the car into town and walk on the Dock Point Trail. This is a short, easy walk. After that, we go to the grocery store, and then, back to the Peter Pan Seafood Market. We are looking for fresh halibut, but they are out of it. They say we should come back at about 11:30 AM tomorrow. We go back to the RV and watch fishing boats catching salmon with nets.
Fishing Boats in Front of RV
There have been two or three fishing boats out here before, but now there are a lot more. We saw them come in last night and drop their anchor. They’ve been at it since before 6:00 AM. They use two boats to pull a net out and then pull it in to catch the pink salmon coming in to spawn. This has been entertainment for us. They’re all gone by a little after 8:00 PM.
Today, the bay is quiet. The only ones we see fishing are the sea lions, sea otters and bald eagles.
We drive the car into town, and go to the Peter Pan Seafood Market. They didn’t get any halibut in today. The king salmon should arrive after lunch. We go shopping. We go to the Old Town Burgers, but there is a line, with at least a 40 minute wait. So, we get chicken breast wraps at the Safeway grocery store. We go back to the Peter Pan Seafood Market, and buy 2 lbs of fresh king salmon, some frozen sockeye salmon and halibut.
While shopping, I find gear cables for my bicycle. The bike rack on the back of our RV has damaged the gear cables. When we get back from shopping, I replace the cables, and we go for a bike ride. We ride to the Solomon Gulch hatchery, and watch the salmon and sea lions.
We cook half the fresh king salmon for dinner. Delicious! We freeze the other half.
We have thoroughly enjoyed our time in Valdez. It has an interesting history. The original town was destroyed in the March, 1964 earthquake, and was rebuilt in a more stable location. This week the town is overloaded with tourists, but there are lots of working people here—everyone is friendly. We didn’t get a chance to go fishing, because it’s four hours to get out to where they fish, and four hours to get back, and all the charter boats are full. But we have seen lots of wildlife and natural beauty.
We’ve been on the road for 110 days and driven 8,200 miles. We’ve spent $4,900 on gas and $2,700 on campgrounds. It’s time to start making our way back. Next—our last days in Alaska…
The eleventh posting of our Alaska RV trip is about our time in the Seward area.
Seward
We leave Homer on day 93. We plan to go to Skilak Lake. As we are leaving, our neighbor tells us about a forest fire in that area—it may be too smoky. We start to see smoke as we drive, and decide to go on to Seward.
We stop at the Marathon Campground, and all the good sights are taken. We park the RV, disconnect the tow-car, and drive it through the other city campgrounds. We find a nice spot in Resurrection Campground. This is dry camping, with a fantastic view, for $20 a night!
After a while, we walk to the Seward Brewing Company for a beer. Then, we walk back to the RV and cook our Buffalo and Pork Bratwurst from Delta Meat and Sausage Company (See 2019 RV Trip—Alaska, Part 6.) They are delicious.
View from our RV
Today we move to a different spot, right on the water. The view is a little better than our previous spot, and our neighbors don’t run their generator all day. We walk to the Kenai Fjord National Park Visitor Center, and get some information about boat tours through the park. We watch a movie about the park and then book a 8½ hour tour for Tuesday.
After that, we walk around the marina to see what people are catching. We find out we are late for king salmon and early for silver salmon. We talk to some people cleaning red salmon. They say they are catching them across the bay, at Fourth of July Beach. One of them gives us a 5 lb bag of filleted red salmon.
Bald Eagle in Front of the RV
It’s almost 10:00PM, and still light. a bald eagle is sitting on a pole in front of our RV. Fran runs out and takes pictures. I put my phone to the binoculars and take some pictures. He stays for a few minutes, until someone gets too close and he flies away. We get some great pictures.
The guy that gave us the salmon said he caught them at Fourth of July Beach. So, today we drive out their to see what’s happening. We watch people snagging salmon. We go to the store and buy some snag-hooks and two one-day nonresident fishing licenses ($50).
Then, we drive to the Exit Glacier Nature Center and hike to the Exit Glacier Viewing Area. The glacier has receded a lot, and we aren’t able to get very close. We can’t take good pictures, because the sun is behind it. But we have a nice hike.
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Fishing is a bust. Our licenses are valid for 24 hours, starting at 7:00AM. We drive out there and try, but we are not experienced enough. We watch people snagging salmon, and they give us tips. We aren’t having any luck, and the wind is cold, so we decide to leave and come back after lunch. We come back and there are more people than before. It’s just as cold and windy. We try for a while and give up. It was fun watching everyone and talking to people anyway.
Sea Lions at Alaska SeaLife Center
On day 66 we go to the Alaska SeaLife Center. It’s a bit pricey, but we enjoy seeing Sea Lions, Harbor Seals, Birds and Fish. We learn a lot about the local wildlife. Then, we walk to Thorns Showcase Lounge and have a halibut bowl—delicious!
Northwestern Glacier
Today we go on the Major Marine Kenai Fjords National Park 8½ hour boat tour. It’s fantastic. We see orca whales, humpback whales, sea lions, seals, sea otters, puffins, and more. We get close to Northwestern Glacier and a few other glaciers. It is well worth the money!
Glennallen
On day 99, we plan to drive to Portage for a few days, but there is a smoke alert from the wildfire. We think about stopping in Anchorage, but there is supposed to be smoke there too. We decide to keep going. It is a very scenic drive on Alaska Hwy 1, with a view of Harvard Glacier. As we come into Glennallen, we see mountain peaks in front of us.
We drive to Caribou Hotel (and RV park) in Glennallen. This place has a few RV sites, some with full hook-ups. We get a pull-thru with electric, water and sewer.
There is a restaurant here, called Ernesto’s Grill. We didn’t take anything out of the freezer for dinner, so we go there and have Chicken Nacho Supreme, Guacamole, and Halibut Tacos. The food is good, The service is slow, but they apologize, saying that they had a rush at the last minute.
We stay here for a day and do some maintenance. We try to flush out our holding tanks, but they are still not showing up as empty on our gauges. We also back-flush and regenerate our portable water softener, work on removing cracked decals and clean/organize the basement.
We have been on the road for 101 days and driven 8,000 miles. We’ve spent roughly $4,400 on gas and $2,400 on campsites. Next stop… Valdez.
The tenth posting of our Alaska RV trip is about our time in Homer.
Homer Alaska
On day 87, we drive to the Homer Elks Lodge. This is a beautiful place, right on the water. We get here at around 4:00PM and there is only one space left. We park, and go into register. Today is Flag Day. They have a celebration and a dinner. The celebration is really good. The dinner is only okay, but we meet some great people.
Homer Elks Lodge
The next day, we drive up East End Road, on the recommendation of one of the Elks members. What beautiful scenery of Kachemak Bay, with snow covered mountains and glaciers in the background.
East End Road
After that we drive down the spit. We stop at the Salty Dawg Saloon. This is the oldest log cabin in Homer, and has lots of history. It reminds us of No Name Pub, in the FL Keys, with all the dollar bills on the ceiling. They don’t have any food, so we have a beer, and walk to Captain Pattie’s Fish House for lunch. We have the char grilled seafood sampler, with halibut, salmon, scallops, and prawns. Excellent. We walk around all the shops in the area and get information about fishing and water taxis.
Salty Dawg Saloon in Homer
It’s Father’s Day. We make reservations for Homer Ocean Charters water taxi to take us to hike to Glacier Lake at 12:30 and book a halibut fishing trip for Tuesday. The boat ride to Kachemak Bay State Park is awesome. The sea otters watch us get dropped off at the beach in front of the trail head. But, it just keeps getting more awesome the farther we go. We hike to the lake and it is unbelievable. Big chunks of ice floating in a lake, with mountains and a glacier in the background. We hike down to another point and the boat picks us up. There are lots of sea otter here. They seem to be as interested in us as we are in them.
Glacier Lake
What a great day! the total trip was five hours, 30 minutes there and 30 minutes back on the boat. The hike was about five miles, and was pretty easy. That gave us plenty of time at the lake. It cost us $170 for the two of us. It was well worth the price.
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On Monday, we think about moving to one of the two city campgrounds. It is $20 a night, with no hook-ups, the really good spots are taken and it is noisy—we decide to stay at the Elks. We pay for two more nights, which is $25 a night with 30-amp electric. We do laundry, grocery shopping, dump the holding tanks, fill the freshwater tank and gas tank.
On Tuesday, we go halibut fishing, on North Country Charters. What a fabulous day! We board The Irish at 6:45. This is a ¾ day charter. The boat holds 16 people and everyone gets their limit, which is two halibut per person. The captain and crew are great. They filet all the fish on the way back to the dock. We end up with 31 lbs. We take two filets with us, and have the rest vacuum-sealed and frozen. We have blackened halibut for dinner.
Fran’s Smaller Halibut
The next day, we pick up seven packages of vacuum-sealed, frozen halibut, and ship the rest to North Carolina. All total, including charter cost, fishing licenses, tip, processing and shipping, it comes to about $25 a pound. It’s not bad, considering we had a fun day.
After that we go to the farmer’s market. We buy a dozen local oysters from Jakalof Bay Oyster Company. We saw the oyster farms, the other day, when we took the water taxi across Kachemak Bay. The captain told us that oysters are not native to Alaska, and they had to import oysters that could tolerate cold water from Japan. Anyway, they are delicious. We also buy radishes, turnips and english cucumbers. The cucumbers are among the tastiest we’ve ever had. We make full use of the turnips. We saute the greens and use the roots in salads.
Homer Spit
We really enjoyed our time in Homer. Things are pricey, but we’ve had a fabulous time, fishing, hiking and touring. People are friendly, except for the local man who pulled up behind us at the dump station, honked his horn and drove up until his bumper was touching our tow-car. Maybe he was having a bad day.
We have driven 7,600 miles and been on the road for 92 days. We’ve spent $4,200 on gas and $2,200 on campgrounds. It’s time to move on. Next stop… Seward.
This posting of our Alaska RV trip is about our time in Anchorage. Someone we met along the way told us that he wouldn’t spend any time in Anchorage—it was just a big city. We did not find that to be true.
Anchorage
After Denali, we go to Anchorage. It’s a scenic trip south, and we stop several times along the way to look out at the snow-covered mountain tops. It is warmer and drier here, than Denali National Park.
Anchorage Visitors Center
We stay at the Moose Lodge. We get a nice site, with electric, for $5 a night. It is nice facility.
The bartender recommends a restaurant called Saint Coyote (Coyote Santo). We almost don’t go in, because there are only two people inside. But they tell us we picked a great place, so we stay. They have only been open for two weeks, and have not advertised. We have a Copper King Salmon Sashimi appetizer, a Blackened Halibut Caesar Salad and Salmon Special with Rockefeller Sauce. Everything is delicious! We get enough food for dinner the next day.
Halibut and Salmon
The next day we take the car in to get the parking brake fixed. (See 2019 RV Trip—Alaska, Part 7.) The Honda dealer in Fairbanks didn’t have the parts to fix them, so we called Continental Honda, in Anchorage a few days ago, ordered the parts and made an appointment.
Continental Honda offers free Uber. We go downtown, to the visitors center. From there, we walk down to the river, watch people catch salmon. Then we go to F Street Station for lunch. More awesome food! We have beer battered halibut and grilled salmon salad. After lunch, we walk some more. We stop at 49th State Brewing Company. We buy two half beers. They are good, but the view here is great. The menu looks good, but we have already eaten. Then, we walk a short way on the Coastal Trail, and get a free Uber back to the car dealership. Our parking brakes are fixed!
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The next day, we drive to some parks in, and near Anchorage. First we go to Woronzof Point, and walk down to the beach. Then, we drive to Earthquake Park. We want to look at the signs about the March 27, 1964 earthquake. It was strongest earthquake in North America. The mosquitoes are so bad, we don’t spend much time here. Then, we go to Potter Marsh, which has a really nice boardwalk. The marsh was accidentally created when they built the railroad. Then, we go to Beluga Point—we don’t see any whales or a bore tide. We go to Windy Point—we don’t see any Dall Sheep. We try to find Bird Point at mile 99, but don’t see the boardwalk. We find out later that the map we have is wrong. It’s at mile 96.
Beluga Point
Then, we drive into downtown Anchorage, and go to the New Sagaya City Market to buy some seafood. This place was recommended to us by the bartender at the F Street Station. We buy a whole king salmon, which he filets, cuts into four pieces, and vacuum seals. We also buy a pound of halibut, which we cook for dinner. We blacken the halibut on the RV, and it is awesome!
I think we’ll stay another day.
We drive to the Flattop Mountain trail head, in Chugach State Park, The trail is considered to be hard. It is 3.3 miles, 1,430 foot elevation. We go most of the way, about 1.5 miles and 820 feet. It is getting steep and clouds start moving in, so we decide to turn around. What we did was awesome, and we got some great pictures.
Flattop Mountain Trail
It’s time to move on. We get up, and fill the fresh water tank at the Moose Lodge. Then, we drive to the Holiday gas station, fill up with gas, and dump the black and gray water tanks. We’ve been on the road for 86 days and driven 7,400 miles. Next stop—Homer.
We enjoyed our time in Anchorage, much more than expected. It is a mixture of city and nature, with an interesting history.
It’s day 65 of our Alaska RV trip and we are getting to Haines, AK today.
Fran dropped her phone six days ago, in Chetwynd, BC and the touch screen is only partially working. (See 2019 RV Trip—Alaska, part 5.)We finally succeeded in downloading the pictures to the computer, so now we can pick up the replacement and return the broken phone.
Haines, Alaska
Driving to Haines
We get up early and fill-up with fuel in Haines Junction, YT. It is overcast and raining, but it’s a beautiful drive above the timberline, with snowy mountains in the background. We stop along the way to take pictures. We have no issues crossing the border. The scenery changes—now we are driving through a bald eagle preserve, beside a river.
Drive to Haines
It’s Memorial Day weekend and we have reservations for four nights at Oceanside RV Park. As the name implies, the park is right on the water. We can watch cruise ships go by. There is a craft beer fest going on and we got the last available spot. Unfortunately, the beer fest tickets are sold out.
Oceanside RV Park
Fran gets her replacement iPhone. There is Verizon Wireless service here, but only 3G. We have a strong signal, but no cellular data, and poor voice. Fran needs to update her phone. People tell us that AT&T works much better here. We go to the Bamboo Room restaurant for lunch, and use their WiFi. The next day we go to the public library, and use their WiFi, but her phone is still not restored.
Haines Alaska
Haines is a small, friendly town. We walk around town. There is a brewery (Haines Brewing Company), a distillery (Port Chikoot Distillery) , and lots of good restaurants. We go to the American Bald Eagle Foundation and see live birds, and stuffed animals. They have many presentations throughout the day. We hear about Sea Otters, Eagles, Moose and Beavers.
American Bald Eagle Foundation
There are two seafood packing companies here. We drive to Haines Packing Company and buy some frozen King and Dungeness Crab. We walk to Dejon Delights packing company and buy some vacuum-sealed smoked salmon. Everything tasted great.
Dungeness Crab Legs
On day 67, we drive the car up to the Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve trail and take the 2.5 mile out-and-back trail. We spot an eagle nest, with an eagle in it.
Downtown Haines
We notice that the brake pads are hot and make a crunching noise. We go to a car wash and try to get the caked-on mud from the wheels. It helps a little.
Juneau, AK
On day 68, we take the Alaska Fjordlines Charter to Juneau. This all day boat trip leaves Haines at 8:30AM and returns at 7:30PM. On the trip down and back, we see whales, sea lions, harbor seals and eagles. The boat drops us off and a bus takes us to downtown Juneau. We have four hours to walk around Juneau.
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Juneau is the capitol of Alaska, and it is land-locked—you can only get there by boat or air. We walk around, and go to the Red Dog Saloon for lunch. This is a busy, fun place. The bartenders are dressed from the gold rush days and there a piano player.
Downtown Juneau is filled with lots of people from cruise ships., We walk around and read the placards, buy a t-shirt and look at some of the historical buildings.
Juneau Alaska
The bus picks us up and we get on the boat. Great, great trip! Well worth the cost.
Whale
Congdon Creek
On day 69, we leave Haines, go back through British Columbia and Yukon. We stop at Congdon Creek in Yukon.
Yukon
Collision
On day 70, we are waiting in line at US customs on the Alaskan Highway. There is an RV in front of us. It starts backing-up. I blow the horn, but it keeps on coming and hits us. The driver comes out and starts yelling that we drove into her. She says she wasn’t even in the driver’s seat—she failed to put it in park. Fortunately, the damage is only cosmetic.
Crunch
We get to Tok. We have Verizon wireless service here. So, we stop and call our insurance company to report the accident. Then we stop at a liquor store, a gas station and a grocery store. We drive on for a while
We drive to Moon Lake State Recreation SIte, just past Tok. This is a beautiful campground, but we are not in the mood to enjoy it.
Moon Lake State Recreation Area
The next day, we are in a better mood. On the way to Fairbanks, we stop in Delta Junction, AK. First we stop at the Delta Meat and Sausage Company and buy some Elk sausage and buffalo bratwurst.
Then we stop at the visitors center and get a certificate that says we made to the end of the Alaskan Highway. We have been on the road for 70 days, driven 6,900 miles, spent $3,500 on gas, $1,700 on campgrounds and we are almost to Fairbanks…
